If you want a supplier in the UK contact Air Born Kites in Brighton Air Born Kites
Colin was kind enough to put me on to them a while back.
Whoop sorry I got confused there thought you were in the UK.| Official Luthiers Forum! http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/ |
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| Go-Bars http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=5362 |
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| Author: | hoosierukes [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 5:17 am ] |
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I've been using split bamboo shish-ka-bob skewers for go-bars. They worked well, but are picking up a permanent curve. I'm thinking that fiberglass rod would make super bars. Does anyone have a source for inexpensive fiberglass rod. I've found kite rod, etc...but want to minimize costs as I will be making many sets for students. |
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| Author: | tl507362 [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 5:20 am ] |
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Try Here at Intothewind.com. I'm sure others will chime in! Tracy |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 5:33 am ] |
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Intothewind is great but if you want to pick them up local Home Depot sells driveway reflectors with 3/16" fiberglass rod in them for $1.98 the rods are 48" long you can get 2 per reflector. Also the get the rubber caps in the wire colset shelving department. and you won't pay shipping or have to wait. by the way fiberglass is the most common rods used in lutherie becasue of consistant loading. With any wood or bambo the force exserted will vary from rod to rod due to differences in the fiber structure. 3/16" rod are imo the perfect size. I know many that use 1/4" but they are very stiff and sometimes cause problems when clamping varied height bracing. 3/16 flex just enough over a 23" length to accomodate up to 1/2"-3/4"" height variance with out much problems while still providing over 8# per rod force. |
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| Author: | letseatpaste [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 5:58 am ] |
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Definitely 3/16"... I tried 1/4" first and thought it'd be fine. I made the switch to 3/16" and it is much easier to use. edit: Also, kite rod is cheap, too, very close to what you'd pay at home depot for the reflector rods, even with shipping. |
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| Author: | RichB [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 6:09 am ] |
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I got mine (fiberglass ones) from John Hall, one of our Sponsors here...'Blues Creek Guitars'. |
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| Author: | Mark Tripp [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 6:12 am ] |
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Another source is Goodwinds Kites -Mark |
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| Author: | RussellR [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 6:44 am ] |
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If you want a supplier in the UK contact Air Born Kites in Brighton Air Born Kites Colin was kind enough to put me on to them a while back. Whoop sorry I got confused there thought you were in the UK. |
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| Author: | Evan Heisler [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 7:24 am ] |
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I was curious, when using these rods, they aren't fastened at the top in any way, right? They work just by wedging them in between the brace and a sturdy ceiling? Do the rubber stoppers provide enough security from slippage? |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 7:36 am ] |
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no they are not fastened. Yes you wedge them in place and yes the rubber caps add the grip needed if properly placed on the work. Most of us have a deck with a sucure top deck and bottom deck about 24" apart. we place our profile bowl in the lower deck along with the top and braces and wedge the bars to the braces and top deck |
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| Author: | crowduck [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 7:41 am ] |
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A 'desk well'(where your legs go) in a desk makes a good go-bar deck. Make a platform of the appropriate height to hold your profile bowl and workpiece. Maybe add some weight to the desk top if it's not a heavy one. CrowDuck |
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| Author: | Don A [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 7:43 am ] |
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[QUOTE=EHeisler] I was curious, when using these rods, they aren't fastened at the top in any way, right? They work just by wedging them in between the brace and a sturdy ceiling? Do the rubber stoppers provide enough security from slippage?[/QUOTE] I worried about that as well Ed. I have a sheet of pegboard attached under the top of my go bar deck but you could probably use carpet or old sandpaper as well to improve the grip. |
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| Author: | Rod True [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 7:57 am ] |
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Micheal P, you must be getting tired of free advertising for Home Depot and the driveway flags.  . They should pay you a commision.
So Micheal...... where can I get fiberglass go-bars? 
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 8:02 am ] |
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[QUOTE=Rod True] Micheal P, you must be getting tired of free advertising for Home Depot and the driveway flags. . They should pay you a commision.
So Micheal...... where can I get fiberglass go-bars? [/QUOTE]
Hey Rod  THUBBBBBBBB |
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| Author: | Evan Heisler [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 10:24 am ] |
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Thanks for all the useful information, everyone. I hope I'm not hijacking the thread, but what works best for cutting fiberglass for those who go the route of the driveway reflectors? edit: I see in the old posts that is is recommended to just use any high speed cutter. |
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| Author: | Martin Turner [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 11:10 am ] |
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Im using lengths of "clear" (ie no knots) hoop pine dowelling on my go bar deck. I looked at using fibreglass rods but couldnt justify extra cost for my intents and purposes. The only thing to watch with the dowelling is occasionally a bar will break on you......not good if you have a heart condition. Don A, I like your idea of mounting peg board on the upper board.....will give it a go on my deck. Cheers Martin |
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| Author: | Martin Turner [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 11:16 am ] |
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[QUOTE=EHeisler] I was curious, when using these rods, they aren't fastened at the top in any way, right? They work just by wedging them in between the brace and a sturdy ceiling? Do the rubber stoppers provide enough security from slippage?[/QUOTE] Evan, yes the rods just sit there firmly weged between the work surface and the upper deck. One thing to watch while inserting the rods is to firmly hold the lower end of the rod on the work surface first and then gently bend the rod and slide the top end of same into position. Holding the lower end during this operation lowers risk of end slipping off a brace and stabbing into a top or a back. Also watch which way you have the bow in the rod....there is a directional component to the force being applied by the go bar. If Im gluing up braces I have the go bars bending out from centre line of top or back to respective ends of brace Cheers Martin |
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| Author: | letseatpaste [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 12:19 pm ] |
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This may go without saying, but safety glasses are a good thing to wear when using a go-bar deck, if you're one of those people that enjoys having non-poked-out eyeballs. |
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| Author: | Miketobey [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 12:49 pm ] |
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Really,guys, google Meisel Hardware-3/16 by 24" for $.99. I bought a bunch from John Hall too and his price is best among all who are actually luthier suppliers- and you get tip covers with his. Those little beggars fall off real easy-a little dab of bath caulk puts a stop to that. |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 2:06 pm ] |
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extra cost 24 fg rods for $25 and they dont snap. unless you are superman |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 2:07 pm ] |
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I do it with my dremel and a cutoff wheel |
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| Author: | old man [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 2:35 pm ] |
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Band saw, here. I bundled 24 together with rubber bands and cut the whole wad at once on the band saw. No problem. Ron |
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| Author: | Dennis E. [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 3:04 pm ] |
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Michael, I'm going to get some Depot rods ... I've thought of a use for the leftover reflectors. I'll just glue them to my new mailbox: 
About 4 a.m. a few days ago some drunk driver slammed into the mailboxes boxes and snagged the truck's back bumper! |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Wed Mar 01, 2006 2:03 am ] |
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OOPPS 
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Wed Mar 01, 2006 2:12 am ] |
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I was in Lowes the last night and they had bare 3/16" 48" fg rods (orange) for $1.99 and they had one rubber end cap on them, but the rubber cap is not as thick of material as the wire closet shelving end protectors I use. I picked up a dozen anyway to make special rod length rods for tasks like attaching tops and backs. that way I know at a quick glance what rod to grab. |
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